12/7/20 The Cellar Door 'Power of Three' HotSheet

2016 DOMAINE BOISSON
CAIRANNE ROUGE 'TROIS TERROIRS'
$23.99 BTL./$287.88 CASE

With a wealth of experience and a young Cairanne guru, the very outgoing Bruno Boisson is at the helm of this Domaine that has roots going back to the 19th century. This is also one of the fabulous tastings to experience if you ever find yourself visiting the Southern Rhone Valley. The Rhone region of Cairanne represents some of the finest, cellar-worthy values in the entirety of the Rhone and of France. After many years, the region accomplished a well-deserved promotion to Appellation Cru status. Commencing with the 2016 vintage it will be labeled only as Cairanne versus the less fashionable and wordy Cotes-du-Rhone Village Cairanne.

A blend of 50 % Grenache, 20 % Syrah, 20 % Mourvedre and 10% Carignan sourced from old vines aging ranging from 55 to 110 years old from three different parcels in Cairanne, which provide a balance between strength and smoothness. A velvet monster that emits aromas of strawberry, savory earth, tealeaf, Thai spices and black licorice. Texturally, this wine is layered, rich and possesses excellent movement from front to back. Old vine depth is very evident on the lengthy, broad finish that snaps back after the wine is swallowed and pleasantly hangs around. No doubt a 5-7 year ager, enjoy with slow-braised lamb or a simply prepared grilled porterhouse spiked with garlic and coated with black pepper.

2017 DOMAINE BOISSON
CAIRANNE ROUGE 'TROIS TERROIRS'
$23.99 BTL./$287.88 CASE

Almost the same blend as 2016, the 2017 is a very different beast. The three terroirs one-third sand, siliceous-limestone soils, one-third clay-limestone slopes, and one-third on garrigue soils (iron-rich which give a red color) still take hold and show poise and breed to go along with all of the depth of fruit. Exciting aromas from the moment that it is poured.

Mysterious, overflowing blueberry, smoked meat, anise and then with laurel tones arriving as it opens. Packed, layered and finely detailed. Expansive, full spice-laden finish rounds it all out. If consumed now, have it with grilled steak or a slow-roasted pork loin done with Provencal features. If you wait 5 years, break out the mushrooms and slow-braise a leg of lamb.

2016 DOMAINE BOISSON
COTES-DU-RHONE BLANC
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE

This is the first time we have ever brought in the white Cotes-du-Rhone from this fantastic Domaine. Only 250 cases are produced of this fine value that is from 40% Roussanne and 20% Viognier from clay and limestone soils just below the village of Cairanne with the remaining 40% coming from Bourboulenc that is grown in sandy soils in the Grand Vallat sector of Cairanne. No malolactic fermentation and aged in stainless steel, this wine epitomizes modern white Rhones combining fruit and freshness.

Blatantly aromatic with cool tones of apricot, nectarine, chamomile and subtle mineral/ginger characteristics wafting from the glass then following through to a balanced, yet lavishly formed texture that bursts with lively fruit, anise and white pepper. Picks up lively dry citrus aspects on the long, driving finish; excellent material and mineral throughout, it is very credible and true to the varietal and growing region. Drink over the next 3-4 years with grilled or roasted salmon, stuffed tomatoes or grilled/roasted vegetables marinated in lemon, olive oil and spices.

2018 TWILL CELLARS PINOT NOIR
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

Owned and operated by Darrell and Molly Roby who originally planted their original site in 2000 and then joined by winemaker Chris Dickson, this estate has quietly put forth well respected and delicious Oregon wines since their inception. We hear quite a bit of whining and moaning about Oregon wine pricing as we have steadily grown in stature as a world-class growing region but there are still many immaculate wines to be enjoyed.

The 2018 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir comes from Johan, Stormy Morning and Molly’s Vineyards and is quite the treat. Not a burly, smoker-friendly version, this Pinot Noir is classy and built on site versus process. Made with native years and aged in 25% new, 500 liter French barrels and 30% whole bunches it is extremely becoming and laden with currant, violet and cinnamon notes along with a kiss of black pepper tones to add dimension. Enticingly aromatic, but the mouth is even more impressive! Excellent ripeness with seductive flavors that crawl throughout the mouth, it is impeccably refined with very deceiving structure, length and backbone. Enjoy this undervalued Pinot Noir over the next 6-7 years.

2018 TWILL CELLARS SYRAH 'OREGON'
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

Syrah is also a passion at Twill Cellars and they are inspired more by France than Washington or Australia. This Syrah is solely from Oregon fruit, 75% from the Applegate Valley and 25% from Stormy Morning vineyard in the coastal foothills. All whole cluster fermented and elevated in seventh use neutral barrels, this cool Syrah is quite plucky and savory.

Aromatic, tantalizing scents of black raspberry, roasted earth, cranberry, white pepper and hints of asphalt. Keep smelling and you will definitely feel as though you have been to two continents! Finesseful, layered flavors that expand and fill the mouth. Brisk red-tinged notes show in the middle, but the wine extends beautifully and shows off a sultry, sensual finish at the end with its silkiness. Treat this as you would any noble Syrah wine from France; have with venison, pheasant or a filet of beef slathered in peppercorns. Drink over the next 5-7 years.

2018 TWILL CELLARS CHARDONNAY
WILLAMETTE VALLEY
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

Twill’s Chardonnay does not take a back seat to their red wines; this is a delicious glass of wine and shows just how superb Oregon Chardonnay can be when done in good hands. As usual, take out the notion of buttery California versions, ours are cool climate and have ample vivacity, depth and character. The 2018 is from Johan, Stormy Morning and Molly’s Vineyard and aged in 300 and 600 liter barrels (25% new) for 19 months.

Bosc pear, lemon and anise tones shine with underlying pure minerality on the nose. There is impressive charisma here. In the mouth, it seems to pirouette like a ballerina before it gains depth and zest with prominent powdery mandarin, stone and faint allspice aspects arriving on the finish.

2018 J. PALACIOS BIERZO 'PETALOS'
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

After all these years of featuring this super expressive wine, it is amazing that we are still able to sell it for a mere 20 bucks. Not much needs to be said when it comes to the influence that Riccardo and Alvaro Palacios have stamped on this stunning Spanish wine region, the wines are always off the hook with quality. The Petalos cuvee is Bierzo 101 vintage 2018 soars once again.

‘...This is the wine that showcases the house style and the character of the vintage, which, in this case, is delicate and very much from the zone. There is an aromatic purity and elegance that is very captivating with a faint flinty background, the cherry essence (Mediterranean) and a touch of fern (Atlantic) plus a honeyed twist that shows up after a couple of hours in the glass. It has a silky texture, soft and caressing, with very fine tannins and the faint bitter twist in the finish. In an ideal world, this should be the first wine people drink from Bierzo, and fortunately, in many cases, it is, given the availability, even if they did a more severe selection. This is approachable now but would be better in one year, and it's going to live in bottle. – 93 POINTS, THE WINE ADVOCATE'

2018 RAUL PEREZ BIERZO
'ULTREIA ST-JACQUES'
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

One of the real good guys in the wine world and along with the Palacios family, Raul Perez has been a force since the initial explosion of Bierzo nearly 20 years ago. He is not only a generous soul; he is also one of the leaders for change in the area, leading to better focus on terroir with the Mencia grape.

'The truly impressive 2018 Ultreia Saint Jacques transcends its price category. They destemmed more grapes because they fermented it in the oak vats they bought from Vega Sicilia to use in the new winery, where it macerated for two months and then matured in used barrels for nine to 10 months. The secret is to use very good grapes from very good vineyards. The wine is clean, precise and fresh, and the oak is super-subtle, almost unnoticeable. The palate reflects a fluid wine of pleasure, a red of thirst. This is the wine where they have invested more, and 2018 has to be the finest vintage to date. – 93 POINTS, THE WINE ADVOCATE'

2017 ANTOINE GRAILLOT & RAUL PEREZ
BIERZO 'ENCINAS'
$31.99 BTL./$383.88 CASE

This is what you get when two highly respected, influential producers collide together and make obscure brilliance. Crozes-Hermitage wiz Antoine Grallot and Bierzo maestro Raul Perez collaborated on this particular Bierzo wine and made something very special indeed.

The results, especially given the cool climate sites in NW Bierzo, are magnificent.Scintillating aromas build and build as very individual red wine made from Mencia unfolds in the glass. Seemingly inspired by St-Joseph meeting Southern Beaune crossed with a little Eastern Italy there is plenty of smoky coriander and perfumed red and black plum tones augmented by mineral and pristine cranberry-like freshness. Plenty of spine here, this wine can easily age for 10-12 years but we cannot encourage you enough to uncork a bottle early on, especially with pork.

CHAMPAGNE BERECHE BRUT RESERVE
$49.99 BTL./$299.94 - SIX PACK

The Bereche brothers’ excellent property in Ludes is becoming more of an essential address in Champagne with each passing vintage. Their wines are among the most vibrant, detailed and expressive bottles on the market today. Brut Reserve is the gateway of this 9000 case estate, only 5500 or so cases are produced!

35% Chardonnay, 35% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir from 40 year old vines. A beautiful core of sensuous aromas with fine bubbles shoot from the bottom of the glass like a Roman candle. Finesseful lemon around wheat-thin biscuit and white chocolate and underlying hazelnut and caramel aspects follow through to an Energetic, yet very classy and elegant palate. Not a hair is out of place. The finish shows piercing aspects but is quite creamy along with another dose of hazelnuts, spice and mineral.

CHAMPAGNE GOUTORBE-BOILLOT
BRUT 'REFLET DE RIVIERE'
$49.99 BTL./$299.94 - SIX PACK

The Goutorbe-Bouillot house is a small grower Champagne estate located in the village of Damery just west of Epernay. Family-owned and run since 1911, the 8 hectares of 30 different parcels of vineyards extend over the Vallée de la Marne with a focus on Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. The union of the name goes back to 1775 with the two families originally selling to large houses. Today the Papleux family owns the estate, and Bastien Papleux makes the wine and manages the business.

The vineyards are in the Vallée de la Marne region, where, traditionally, the grape variety Pinot Meunier is dominant. Goutorbe-Bouillot certainly follows the Meunier mantra, although Chardonnay is becoming more important. Currently more than half of Goutorbe-Bouillot's vineyards are planted to Pinot Meunier. The average age of the parcels is around 35 years old, though some parcels were planted in 1930 and are almost a century old. 60% Meunier, 20% each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, lovely aromas reveal the classy personality that this family puts forth not only in their wines but also in their demeanor. Excellent "pearly" perfume. White fruits (peach and pear), yellow apple, spiced bread and overall very flattering and arms-open with its richness and friendliness. Ample cut and minerality, prominent length and sophistication, this is fabulous fizz.

CHAMPAGNE SAVART
BRUT 'L'OVERTURE'
$49.99 BTL./$299.94 - SIX PACK

Frederic Savart and his family’s bubblies have become quite the force for those who know and love Champagne. Based in Ecueil, a mere 20 minutes from the city limits of Reims, these wines from the Montagne de Reims are not only some of the finest, they are also quite scarce – nine different cuvees from a mere 9¾ acres of vines!

L’Overture is the gateway wine into the bubbly world of Fred Savart. A classic Blanc de Noirs, this wine is entirely from vineyards in Ecueil. Made from 100% Pinot Noir and while all Pinot Noir often stereotyped to be Champagnes of power, Ecueil and Savart’s provide some of the silkiest bubbles around. On the nose, there are gorgeous aromatics of lime, yellow apple, chalk, and a touch of classy white chocolate. In the mouth the mousse and creaminess is incredibly regal, with penetrating and almost floating bubbles. Great texture and superb persistence make this a truly exquisite Champagne value. Alas, given the tiny production, these tend to fly and wind up in Champagne geeks’ cellars. If you dig bubbly as much as we do, free your mind and explore Savart’s wines.