11/22/21 The Cellar Door's 'BADASSERY' HotSheet


THE CELLAR DOOR'S 'BADASSERY' HOTSHEET
92 point Rose & fresh White for 11, Bordeaux, Vietti, Andrew Will Cab


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2019 VIETTI 'PERBACCO'
LANGHE NEBBIOLO
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE

Luca Currado always likes to remind his friends and all wine lovers that this Nebbiolo could qualify as a full-fledged Barolo. Cuvees that show early access, which are not used in the final Barolo Castiglione blend, are used to make the Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco. The name ‘Perbacco’ is an interjection that translates into something like ‘my word’ or ‘dang/damn’ because that was the reaction Luca’s mama Luciana said when initially tasting the wine and informed that it was not a Barolo. ‘Perbacco, it tastes like Barolo,’ was her exclamation and thus the Vietti Perbacco came to life and has become an iconic Langhe Nebbiolo.

2019 is a classically formed, virtuoso vintage for Piedmont where many wines will age very well. Think of 2004 OR 2013 but with excellent stuffing. Drawn-out red fruits, roses, chocolate licorice and undercurrents of perfumed earth tones, there is exquisite movement, depth and persistence, especially on the detailed and luxurious finish. Drinks well early and ages impeccably, too. Enjoy it over the next 6-9 years with hearty risotto dishes, roasted game or intense cheeses.



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2015 CHATEAU HAUT-PLANTEY
HAUT-MEDOC
$16.99 BTL./$203.88 CASE

Back in July around Bastille Day, I uncorked a bottle of this Bordeaux to see what’s what. Not only was I astonished at how beautifully it is drinking and how it has developed, I had to bring in some more for you all to drink as well.

Located in the heart of the Haut Medoc and not far from Margaux and St-Julien, this workaday Bordeaux is a prototype, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 60% Merlot blend. Aromatic full spice follows dark fruit, violet, undertones of tealeaf and cassis. Dramatic with sneaky fullness, flavorful, nicely layered aspects shine from the quality, depth and charm of the 2015 vintage. Broad texture, nice earth and movement. Very Medoc, with its elegantly poised finish. Punches well above its weight class at 17-bucks. Drink now – 2025. Delicious with prime rib, game like elk or venison but also simpler fare like lentil soup or a burger.



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2020 ROCCA DI MONTEGROSSI
TOSCANA ROSE
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

92 points – Vinous…Normally when we offer this wine in July or August it comes with the tag line at the end ‘hold a few bottles until Thanksgiving’, especially since it normally sells out by summer’s end. As has been the case since the pandemic set in, nothing is ever as it seems and whaddayinz know, there is some available for your holidays feasts!

100% Sangiovese directly press after 24 hours and elevated in stainless steel tanks, the 2020 is more detailed with sensuous mineral, Tuscan herbs and earthy notes out front with classy red berries and melon bringing up the rear for added intrigue and complexity. Superb intensity, yet very glow and brisk with a mouth-filling, uplifting and invigorating texture that really coats and sweeps the palate clean. As mentioned, it is excellent with turkey also enjoyable with grilled prawns, grilled salmon with or without a board, an intense pecorino cheese or lighter pork dish. Mamma Mia!



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2020 HEREMIE HUCHET MUSCADET
LA CHAUVENIERE
$11.99 BTL./$143.88 CASE

The Loire Valley’s Muscadet region has somewhat of a quiet youth movement caused by a new Cru system that emphasizes quality over quantity. Alas, the image that Muscadet still should sell for 4€ in any French grocery store still prevails but changes are afoot. Jeremie Huchet is a young producer and one that we have been chirping about for almost two years now. La Chauviniere is a blend of sites within the Cru of Chateau Thebaud and is the original property that Jeremie’s father started with in 1971.

Bone dry and having nothing to do with the Muscat grape, Muscadet is 100% Melon. Stunning seashells shimmer from the glass (say that 5 times fast). Very direct with underlying white flowers, lemon drop and prominent gabbro soil flinty quality. Super-exuberant, expressive and jaunting. Very mineral from start to the live-wire finish. Shuck a dozen of briny oysters, what the hell are you waiting for!



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2017 ANDREW WILL
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 'CHAMPOUX'
$44.99 BTL./$539.88 CASE

After a decade or so of making terrific Cabernets from a blend of vineyards and labeling it as Columbia Valley, Andrew Will winemaker Will Camarda decided that 2017 and the terrific quality was the time to start labeling the Cabs with their own sites. This offering comes from the profound Champoux Vineyard and what is in the bottle is magical indeed.

Long established, Champoux is named after original owner/vineyard manager Paul Champoux who first planted in 1972. Now owned by a small consortium that includes, Andrew Will Woodward Canyon, Powers and Quilceda Creek, wines from this vineyard are always of apex quality and distinction. Given the late spring, warm summer and cool, drawn out September and October, 2017 for the top Washington vineyards is fabulous. This rocking Cab is seamless with cassis, blackberry cobbler, jasmine, kissed of coffee, nutmeg, and smoke wafting from the nose. A boulder wrapped in lace, broad structure, waves of depth and underlying subtle tones will reveal themselves with aeration. Long, packed and stacked, this wine is rock star stuff! If you must drink it now, decant it and be armed with a big sirloin, but for best results, cellar it until 2023 and drink it through 2031+.