Friday Sips

They say that dogs can resemble their owners. Sometimes people can equate themselves with dogs. Around here, Bryan is probably the equivalent of a St. Bernard with Rabies with a curmudgeonly charm all while having the urge to chase cars. While there are many good Barbera wines, many that resemble dogs that have qualities of a Mississippi Leg-Hound who likes to pee on fires and should be avoided at all costs. Now in order to be fair and balanced (or as Bryan can be, fairly unbalanced) we have to let you know that there are an immense amount fine expressions of the grape, and Giuseppe Cortese's is one of the dandiest and doesn't cost a fortune. In fact, if it were a dog, it would probably be a festively plump, overly spoiled, enticingly manipulative Bichon-Frise with a stylin' afro.

Cortese is one of Barbaresco's top-level producers who specializes in wines from the famed Rabaja vineyard. While his famed Barbaresco wines come from Rabaja, his Barbera and Dolcetto come from another fine Barbaresco site called Trifolera. As mentioned in the paragraph above, the Barbera takes on the personality of the site and the family with depth and cerebral qualities along with a gentle, fun side to them. The 2012 reveal sensational, penetrating aromatics with fine equilibrium and characteristics of black raspberry and milk chocolate with hints of underbrush and violet sneaking through. The texture is luscious, very sexy and satisfying. Supple, ripe and harmoniously hearty through and through as well as a finish that is rather extensive. An insatiable drink now through 2018. Serve it with pasta dishes with meat sauce, roasted chicken, or a medium aged pecorino.

There are moments when strong terroir transcends and overrides a particular grape varietal. Here is one such example from a Barolo region superstar. This wine is from the Barbera grape, but more importantly, it smells like the village of Barolo, mostly due to it now being 7 years old and coming from a single Cru vineyard within the famed region. Cannubi is a virtual Grand Cru vineyard that overlooks this hallowed village and is comprised of 5 major plots, Cannubi Muscatel being one of them. From the first aroma to the super-long finish, this wine oozes class.

Never straying from its varietal roots in the mouth, the nose reveals dark plum, dusty clay, classic Barolo-village aromatic floral, porcini, mineral and subtle licorice notes. More aromatically expressive as it unfolds in the glass, it entices you to do what nature tells one to do with Barbera, drink the damn thing!! Oozing class on the palate, it is seamless Barbera that's savory, mouth crawling and impressively put together; especially on the finish that fans out nicely. A significant step-up from everyday Barbera, try with risotto or braised beef over the next several years.

Introduced to Tenuta Olim Bauda's wines a few years ago, Bryan instantly loved them and visited the estate back in 2010. Safe to say meeting with brothers Dino & Gianni Bertolini and experiencing the family's wines it was a most educational way to learn more about the Asti region. The estate itself is located in Incisa Scapaccino with the vines for this award-winning Barbera coming from the village of Nizza Monferrato, both of which make up the spiritual heart of the Asti region of Piedmont.

Full-bodied and built to age, the Nizza bottling from Olim Bauda is their most special Barbera and only produced in appropriately prominent vintages like 2010! From low-yielding vineyards within the Olim Bauda estate, this wine is packed and chock full of character. Released like a Riserva with an additional year in bottle after 15 months in oak, this lionized Barbera shows more of the dark tones of Asti. Lacy, yet delineated, this sultry effort reveals plenty of depth and broadness while being very well integrated with its acidity and thoughtfully placed shroud of oak. Dense, but not overdone it is concentrated and expansive on the succulent very lasting finish. Drink with roasted meats or risotto jacked with a bunch of mushrooms, particularly seasonal chanterelles over the next decade. If you need a score to enhance confidence, this has 94 points from Piedmont wine expert Antonio Galloni's Vinous.

Another area that we have represented today within our Barbera tour of Piedmont is the Roero. Located west of Barbaresco and Alba these pronounced hills have an abundance of excitement happening with young producers utilizing vineyards dominated by sandy soils. Perhaps the biggest influence on the area is Correggia. This leading estate produces fabulous wines and their entry-level Barbera has long been a fan-favorite of Piedmont aficianados.

Very handsome indeed, the 2012 Correggia Barbera shows itself as being markedly different from those of Asti and Alba but on equal footing when it comes to quality at its price level. Laden with smoke, fragrant strawberry, subtle licorice, plum and herbs on the nose, there are considerable pleasure-points throughout. Lots of poise and personality in the mouth with classic, racy fresh aspects, which hold it all together. A delightful fall/ winter wine that will enliven any hearty Italian-inspired dish.