Friday Sips

This week we have the great grape of Piedmont on display with three examples from three superb producers. Drop by today, Friday Mar. 8 to experience an over-reaching Nebbiolo, obscure Fara and an outstanding “Grand Cru” Barolo

Located in the Barolo village of Monforte D'Alba, Flavio Roddolo is not only known for high-quality Barolo, he is also famous for his Nebbiolo D'Alba. Given this guy's land and quality, these wines are usually high-priced but then again, this is a Nebbiolo that can best a lot of Barolo. Only 250 cases of this wine are produced and due to a distribution change, we have a very special price on the now-drinking-beautifully 2005!

Traditionally-styled, this is all about power-terroir. Classically-formed with cherry licorice, subtle balsam, flowers and pronounced ironstone. Broad and penetrating, this savory, mouth-coating Nebbiolo tastes delicious now and will still hold nicely. Enjoy it with slow-braised beef dishes.

The Northern reaches of Piedmont are quite in vogue, especially with a resurgence of regions like Gattinara and Ghemme but also a rediscovery of sorts of formerly lesser-known DOCs like Boca, Lessona and for this particular wine, Fara. Closer to Milano than Alba, the wines here are markedly different than those of Barolo and Barbaresco and have wonderful distinction to them. For today, this is the only offering that isn’t 100% Nebbiolo, Il Chiosso’s Fara contains a dollop of very old vine Vespolina. A wild, wonderful Piedmont experience, the Alpine glacial-deposit soils of clay/sand result in sultry perfume. Profuse aromatics rule the day on this wine that is nothing like Barolo or Barbaresco. Sultry scents of violet, mushroom, underlying graham-like spice. Medium-to-full texture with all of the mysteriousness that Nebbiolo delivers along with a hint of spiciness which is brought forth by the Vespolina, the Fara is a wine that can be uncorked with roasted or grilled meats, but also one that will age nicely for 6-9 years, too. This is what is so exciting about Italy right now, the use of indigenous grapes and the expression of the boot's diverse terroirs.

For those of you who don't know the Barolo wines of Marcarini, open your textbooks and get to learn them! OK, so maybe we are being a little chippy in our approach, but this is one of the most consistent and sublime estates in Piedmont and one that Karen and Bryan have been working with for well over 2 decades and it is a thrill to be able to offer it for tasting today.

Located in the Barolo village of La Morra, Marcarini utilizes 2 top single vineyards, Brunate and La Serra. Think of fraternal twins, because the wines from these sites aren’t look-a-likes. Often times, choosing your favorite is quite a dilemma that is akin to trying to choose your favorite child, a favorite football team or your favorite Simpson (Bryan's is O.J.).

The 2005 Brunate is pure with fruit-driven aromas of redcurrant , tobacco and licorice, along with a strong floral component and a balsamic suggestion of incense. Bigger and denser in the mouth than La Serra with more powerful structure that will shed as it ages. Comes across as richer but less finesseful than La Serra as Brunate so often does but in time, class and grace epitomize this grand-scale wine. The finish is big and vociferous with plenty of ripe, gripping tannins. Ultimately, this is still a tad young but for our purposes, but we’re still going to enjoy it today. If you do open it, do up a rich risotto dish packed with porcini. Drink through 2025.