Hot Sheets
THE CELLAR DOOR'S 'Oobatz' HOTSHEET
Deep Rioja Special, 96 point Barolo, Dry Rose & more
We have been using this tasty Bordeaux from the picturesque Fronsac region over the last several years but after tasting it both in France and now on our shores, it is safe to say that the 2015 is very special indeed. Utilizing Bordeaux rock star enologist Stephane Derenoncourt since 2011, this wine shows what happens when this cat gets his hands on a great vintage.
Located in close proximity to Saint-Emilion, this wine takes on some of the characteristics of the more famed area yet has its own pedigree. Blackcurrants, smoke, mineral and an underbelly of cherry, spice and baking herbs, it is well textured, classy and dry. The finish is sneaky long for such a wine under fifteen bucks. Prototype petite chateau Bordeaux and one that carries beautifully to the dinner table. Drink now – 2023.
Located in close proximity to Saint-Emilion, this wine takes on some of the characteristics of the more famed area yet has its own pedigree. Blackcurrants, smoke, mineral and an underbelly of cherry, spice and baking herbs, it is well textured, classy and dry. The finish is sneaky long for such a wine under fifteen bucks. Prototype petite chateau Bordeaux and one that carries beautifully to the dinner table. Drink now – 2023.
I will reiterate it once again from earlier this year. Explaining the virtues and intricacies of the noble Riesling grape is always one of the most frustrating aspects of my job. Riesling is a varietal that comes in all shapes and sizes and levels of sweetness. These range from some of the most ferociously dry and ageworthy versions to some of the sweetest and most sought-after dessert wines in the world and then all points in between. Take pause and notice this wine. Yes, it is Riesling, yes, it is from Germany, and yes, we have to shout about it out to the non-believers: YES, IT IS DRY!
Germany’s Rheingau region rested on its laurels for way too long, becoming known as a place virtually "Disnified" with tourists coming to see timber-lined houses and to taste wine at tasting room with folks wearing lederhosen pouring them, all while ignoring quality. While there is a renaissance occurring with a new generation of producers, Robert Weil, the unwavering king of high quality remains the same and continues to deliver ungodly great wines on all levels. The Trocken (dry) category of Riesling has become wildly popular because of its diversity. Like the sweet wines, Trocken is a blank slate for its terroir, but also goes with an abundance of food choices. This wine is a flat out blitzkrieg of character. Prominent lime on the nose along with some saline and subtle spice, too. Very varietal Riesling, quite pungent and tense. Bone-dry, virtual stony citrus that shimmers with the minerality, it has a racy lemon zest, flinty, finish that really goes. I’m sort of thinking halibut or mussels but this will also work very well with pork and holiday turkey or ham.
Germany’s Rheingau region rested on its laurels for way too long, becoming known as a place virtually "Disnified" with tourists coming to see timber-lined houses and to taste wine at tasting room with folks wearing lederhosen pouring them, all while ignoring quality. While there is a renaissance occurring with a new generation of producers, Robert Weil, the unwavering king of high quality remains the same and continues to deliver ungodly great wines on all levels. The Trocken (dry) category of Riesling has become wildly popular because of its diversity. Like the sweet wines, Trocken is a blank slate for its terroir, but also goes with an abundance of food choices. This wine is a flat out blitzkrieg of character. Prominent lime on the nose along with some saline and subtle spice, too. Very varietal Riesling, quite pungent and tense. Bone-dry, virtual stony citrus that shimmers with the minerality, it has a racy lemon zest, flinty, finish that really goes. I’m sort of thinking halibut or mussels but this will also work very well with pork and holiday turkey or ham.
CVNE (Cia Viñacola Del Norte De España, or Cune) is one of the most important producers of Rioja wine. Founded in 1879, and unbeknownst to many, these wines really sneak under the radar when it comes to Rioja. Vina Real is a separate property and is located in the Rioja Alavesa zone and the wines that emerge are nothing short of outstanding. There was a last go-round for the stellar 2012 Reserva and it is on a deep special price – take advantage!
‘[$47 list] Bright ruby-red. Intense, oak-spiced cherry and raspberry scents, along with suggestions of musky earth, tobacco and vanilla. Sweet, seamless and penetrating in the mouth, offering intense red fruit and floral flavors that deepen steadily on the back half. In a graceful style, but there's deceptive power and depth of flavor here as well. Closes very long and sappy; smooth tannins frame the sweet, oak-kissed fruit. Drink: 2018-2025. – 92 POINTS, VINOUS'
‘[$47 list] Bright ruby-red. Intense, oak-spiced cherry and raspberry scents, along with suggestions of musky earth, tobacco and vanilla. Sweet, seamless and penetrating in the mouth, offering intense red fruit and floral flavors that deepen steadily on the back half. In a graceful style, but there's deceptive power and depth of flavor here as well. Closes very long and sappy; smooth tannins frame the sweet, oak-kissed fruit. Drink: 2018-2025. – 92 POINTS, VINOUS'
Made from 120-year-old vines, this is from fruit that Pierano used to sell to many other Zinfandel specialists. Intense but velvety, layered and smooth with telltale, full-throttle Zin character that builds up alluring red and black cherry, rhubarb, violet and cocoa. Flavorful, deep and palate staining, this insanely valued Zinfandel is chiseled with a breath-taking finish that is normally reserved for Zins that are two and three times its price. Drink this steal over the next 3-4 years.
There are many thought-provoking questions that always intrigue me such as - If you choke a Smurf, what color does it turn? Or - Why is it called tourist season if we can't shoot at them? And one of our favorites - Why do they put Braille dots on the keypad of a drive-up ATM?
Once again, a perennial August question has popped up - What do yinz suggest for a white wine to drink as summer winds down? Of course, we suggest a Le Velette Orvieto! Le Velette is one of the stars of this region, and if one were to ever drink liquid emeralds, this wine would be it. Intense bouquet filled with fresh fruit, floral and mineral nuances. Complex flavors of lemon, lime and apricots with a beguiling roundness and a piercing, zesty finish that has a sneaky touch of almond. Great for Ceviche and other light seafood dishes.
Once again, a perennial August question has popped up - What do yinz suggest for a white wine to drink as summer winds down? Of course, we suggest a Le Velette Orvieto! Le Velette is one of the stars of this region, and if one were to ever drink liquid emeralds, this wine would be it. Intense bouquet filled with fresh fruit, floral and mineral nuances. Complex flavors of lemon, lime and apricots with a beguiling roundness and a piercing, zesty finish that has a sneaky touch of almond. Great for Ceviche and other light seafood dishes.
65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre from one of Vacqueyras’s top producers in the outstanding 2016 vintage.
Immediately noticeable is a multitude of complex perfumed aromas of exotic spice, lavender, ground pepper, violet and smoky, gamey notes that all shine on the nose. In the mouth, the flavors speak a dialect that is pure Provencal! No shortage of intensity here, what separates it from going into being redundant is its lively qualities, especially on the minerally, spice-laden finish that seemingly coats the entire palate. Very lovely now and will age well for 8-10+ years. Enjoy obviously with a grilled rib-eye or hangar steak but it will also pair well with marinated skewers that feature lamb, veggies and other meats, lentil/tomato dishes and slow roasted stews like a daube de Provence.
Immediately noticeable is a multitude of complex perfumed aromas of exotic spice, lavender, ground pepper, violet and smoky, gamey notes that all shine on the nose. In the mouth, the flavors speak a dialect that is pure Provencal! No shortage of intensity here, what separates it from going into being redundant is its lively qualities, especially on the minerally, spice-laden finish that seemingly coats the entire palate. Very lovely now and will age well for 8-10+ years. Enjoy obviously with a grilled rib-eye or hangar steak but it will also pair well with marinated skewers that feature lamb, veggies and other meats, lentil/tomato dishes and slow roasted stews like a daube de Provence.
Many times Washington blends such as this and especially at this price are mere throwaways or are from bulked out juice. Alas, most of them taste fruity and boring. Not this one! Made by up and coming Washington star WT Vintners, winemaker Jeff-Lindsay Thorsen believes in wines of detail and finesse.
Raconteur Wines is a vital part of the entire operation and is made from fine vineyard sites, native yeast fermentation and 18 months in neutral oak barrels so not to give it any caricature qualities. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, this is real wine! Cassis, underlying blackberry, dusty clay tones and fine herbs shine on the nose. Dreamy, sultry and all about texture in the mouth, this stylish red is layered with lots of movement and various complex flavor profiles. Drawn-out, lingering and possessing excellent substance on the back end enjoy this Washington red blend over the next 2-3 years with a variety of cuisines.
Raconteur Wines is a vital part of the entire operation and is made from fine vineyard sites, native yeast fermentation and 18 months in neutral oak barrels so not to give it any caricature qualities. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, this is real wine! Cassis, underlying blackberry, dusty clay tones and fine herbs shine on the nose. Dreamy, sultry and all about texture in the mouth, this stylish red is layered with lots of movement and various complex flavor profiles. Drawn-out, lingering and possessing excellent substance on the back end enjoy this Washington red blend over the next 2-3 years with a variety of cuisines.
While we are always big supporters of Sancerre, we have certainly taken notice of how the prices have steadily increased due to things like currency, yields, prestige and ego. Located in Sancerre's neighborhood in the Haut Loire is the village and growing region of Menetou-Salon. Yes, Sauvignon is grown here but there are also small portions of Pinot Noir, which make light reds and this terrirfic Rose.
Domaine Chatenoy’s Pierre and Isabelle Clement are amongst the leading growers in this village and their wines are a steal given what is in the bottle. In this case, it is 100% Pinot Noir and from the classic kimmeridgian marl soils that allow the resulting wines to convey their minerality so very well. Plenty of flinty, rocky qualities, it is the penetrating strawberry/lemon fruit that shines on this persuasively explosive pink offering. Succulent from the moment it is tasted, plenty of zesty features call one back for more. Vibrant and piercing enough for shellfish dishes but enough weight to handle white fishes in sauce.
Domaine Chatenoy’s Pierre and Isabelle Clement are amongst the leading growers in this village and their wines are a steal given what is in the bottle. In this case, it is 100% Pinot Noir and from the classic kimmeridgian marl soils that allow the resulting wines to convey their minerality so very well. Plenty of flinty, rocky qualities, it is the penetrating strawberry/lemon fruit that shines on this persuasively explosive pink offering. Succulent from the moment it is tasted, plenty of zesty features call one back for more. Vibrant and piercing enough for shellfish dishes but enough weight to handle white fishes in sauce.
Over the last year or so, we have been featuring wines from Paolo Scavino; however, their cousins at Azeli, led by Luigi and Lorenzo Scavino, also produce rock star Barolo wines that are also serious business. I was quite taken aback when I saw that there was a limited amount of this highly touted 2010 single Cru from the Serralunga-based vineyard of San Rocco available. It also happens to have a huge accolade as well:
‘Dark cherry, plum, smoke, menthol, melted road tar and graphite meld together in the 2010 Barolo San Rocco. A big, explosive wine, the 2010 blossoms in the glass with layers of deep, expressive fruit. The San Rocco is usually a wine of volume and breadth, at it is again in 2010. The firm Serralunga tannins are present, but they are also beautifully balanced. I can't wait to see how the 2010 develops. Today, the San Rocco is young, young, young. Drink 2018 – 2035. – 96 POINTS – VINOUS’
‘Dark cherry, plum, smoke, menthol, melted road tar and graphite meld together in the 2010 Barolo San Rocco. A big, explosive wine, the 2010 blossoms in the glass with layers of deep, expressive fruit. The San Rocco is usually a wine of volume and breadth, at it is again in 2010. The firm Serralunga tannins are present, but they are also beautifully balanced. I can't wait to see how the 2010 develops. Today, the San Rocco is young, young, young. Drink 2018 – 2035. – 96 POINTS – VINOUS’
FRIDAY SIPS
Muscadet Mayhem
This Friday August 9 from 1:30 - 6:30
I've had some requests for a white wine Friday Sips so here goes: Located in the Loire Valley just outside the city of Nantes, Muscadet is a region whose dry wines have absolutely nothing to do with the Muscat grape. Actually made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, these sizzling-dry wines express their unique soils impeccably and are some of the greatest vehicles to pair with seafood.
Drop by this Friday to get educated on one of France’s most versatile white wines from four apex producers
Drop by this Friday to get educated on one of France’s most versatile white wines from four apex producers
FEATURED WINES:
2018 Metaireau Muscadet ‘P’tit Mouton’
2018 Pepiere Muscadet ‘La Pepie’
2016 Luneau Muscadet ‘Clos des Allees’
2012 Haut-Bourg Muscadet ‘Grandes Origines’
