11/22/19 Friday Sips

2016 PESQUIER GIGONDAS
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE

The elusive French container has finally landed, and just in time! Upon papa Guy’s retirement, Mathieu Boutiere has taken the knowledge of what his father gave him along with his own vision and is creating superb wines from their Gigondas-based cellars. Owning just over 40 acres (33 on the classic Gigondas plateau with red clay, limestone and gravel and 7 in the Dentelles with marl covered by scree) the Gigondas is the specialty of the house at Pesquier. Not only is this a stellar value, right now I feel that this wine is top four or five in the entire appellation. 75% Grenache, 20% Syrah & 5% Mourvedre, this is classy and sassy juice with a side of complexity.

Scoring the finest of Gigondas this good at this price level never happens these days because so many (including a bunch that aren’t of this caliber) are north of $30. The 2016 is the finest since 2010 and with its core of generous fruit, detail of origin, backbone and freshness, these wines have all the trappings for greatness. Penetrating, muscular but not without class. Soulful scents of blackberry, balsamico, licorice and rosemary all in a seamless package. Well-concentrated with plenty of dance and elusiveness – fleet-footed for being this full and intense. Livens and brightens on the high-toned, very lengthy finish that seemingly has herbes de provence sprinkled about. Drink this beauty through 2028, however decant it if you wish to have it on the younger side.

2016 TERRIERE MOULIN-A-VENT
'CUVEE LA LURE'
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE

When visiting France at the end of May it was a real thrill to meet up with our old friend Gregory Barbet and receive a true to form tour of the entire Beaujolais region driving from Cru to Cru. The visit to his Chateau absolutely reaffirms our notion that $18-$25 for top Cru Beaujolais is infinitely more interesting and delivers more value than Pinot Noir from anywhere in the world at the same price.

Sometimes regarded as specialists in Brouilly, the Barbet family has invested wisely in the top Cru of Moulin-a-Vent, which is generally regarded as the apex Cru of this region. Owning just over 8 acres spread over five different lieu dits, what is most important are the shades of granite along with impressive minerality and various limestone and rocks that are interspersed within the sites. The energy of 2016 combined with depth and personality of what these sites deliver has resulted in a magnificent offering.

Broad scaled as usual with ironstone, classic blackberry, hints of coffee and pepper; there is plenty of jaunting qualities to this full-on wine. Power with fruit, it shows quite pinote even at this young stage and has lovely inviting qualities. The finish is even more cerebral with mineral and superb length. One of the most food friendly red wines on the planet it may be enjoyed with everything from roasted poultry with mushrooms (of course), to salmon, steak in a classic peppercorn sauce, or cheeses and meats.

2015 CHATEAU GAILLARD
SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU
$31.99 BTL./$383.88 CASE

Situated on the lower half of the slope below the historic village of St. Emilion, Château Gaillard possesses 20 hectares of vines. Neighboring Chateau Canon-Gaffeliere and dragged from obscurity by owner/winemaker Catherine Nouvel-Papon's determination to estate-bottle the vineyards' total production, Château Gaillard's commitment to excellence was brought to the next level. In rather quick fashion, this small Château found its way on Bordeaux lovers' wine-maps with the 1996 vintage. Commencing in 2008, Chateau Gaillard became a rarity within Bordeaux; Catherine began converting her vineyards to practice biologique/organic farming. These days the wines are even more impressive and extremely undervalued given their high quality and propensity to age.

If you haven't heard by now, the gods were fantastically kind in 2015 & 2016 for Bordeaux. Given all the fine vintages that we have sold from Catherine, this one may be her best work to date. One-third new oak, 14 months. Holy merde excitement abound! All about sensuality, this deep wine moves from plum to raspberry - splendid penetration and old vine (50 yrs) depth. Underlying mineral and cocoa powder are present. Brilliant depth and generosity, this smashing Bordeaux is layered, frontal yet nicely structured. Lots of dimension throughout with both its fullness and movement, however, there is submerged grip and backbone which bode well for the future. Given my experience with this producer and a vintage such as this, there is no problem to savor this wine through 2030.

2015 CHATEAU PEYROU
CASTILLON COTES-DE-BORDEAUX
$24.99 BTL./$299.88 CASE

Cotes-de-Castillon is a large Bordeaux appellation but Catherine was in on the ground floor by acquiring a 10-acre plot for this wine in 1989. The special part to this vineyard is that these vines sit across a one-lane street from Saint-Emilion. Two other wines are produced at Peyrou but this Grand Vin is solely from the oldest vines, which are 80+ year old.

Aged in one-third new oak, this wine reveals deep forward and youthful aspects of violet, blackcurrant, sweet red pepper and a hearty meatiness that leads on to a generous palate with fine tannins and a cherry infused cocoa spice that lingers on the dense finish. Slightly less poised and lux than the previously mentioned Saint-Emilion but a damn fine example of Right Bank terroir at its pinnacle and with the class of something more expensive. Drink now and over the next 8-10 years with lamb, venison and other gamey meats.

SPECIAL WEDNESDAY SIPS

The Most Wonderful Day Of The Year!!

FEATURED STARTING SELECTIONS:

Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier
2018 Terre Bianche Vermentino Riviere di Ligure Ponente
2016 Beaurenard Chateauneuf-du-Pape
These are just to start, many other fun and exciting things will be uncorked!
I’m taking requests within reason :-)