7/5/23 The Cellar Door's 'LIGHTS, CAMERA, VINO' HotSheet
THE CELLAR DOOR'S 'LIGHTS, CAMERA, VINO' HOTSHEET
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Value Barbaresco
Fun white wines, Succulent Rose & more
Value Barbaresco
Fun white wines, Succulent Rose & more
2019 RONCHI BARBARESCO
$27.99 BTL./$335.88 CASE
$27.99 BTL./$335.88 CASE
94 Points – Wine & Spirits Magazine…A small estate that we have been working with over the last few years, Ronchi takes its name after he single Cru of Ronchi which happens to butt up against Montestefano…and all of the fruit for this wine comes from that particular parcel. Once again, this searing value performs at a mighty level, especially from the great 2019 vintage. It still amazes me at how this price has remained the same, especially given the response and accolades.
The Cru of Ronchi always puts forth a bit of power and 2019 follows the trend very well indeed. Aged in large Slavonian casks, this traditionally made Barbaresco is very stirring immediately. Density, expansion and early smoothness., it is loaded with perfumy aromas of porcini, rose petal and prominent black licorice which follow into a texture that is still a touch youthful, quite spicy, palate-staining, structured and drawn-out. You really want to have this one with food…mushrooms or braised meat and do decant. Not inaccessible, it will undoubtedly be at its pinnacle from 2024 – 2033+.
The Cru of Ronchi always puts forth a bit of power and 2019 follows the trend very well indeed. Aged in large Slavonian casks, this traditionally made Barbaresco is very stirring immediately. Density, expansion and early smoothness., it is loaded with perfumy aromas of porcini, rose petal and prominent black licorice which follow into a texture that is still a touch youthful, quite spicy, palate-staining, structured and drawn-out. You really want to have this one with food…mushrooms or braised meat and do decant. Not inaccessible, it will undoubtedly be at its pinnacle from 2024 – 2033+.
2020 CASTERA JURANCON SEC
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
I have to admit that I cannot necessarily be partial to this white wine; it has been one of the most spellbinding that I have consumed this year. Located just south of the city of Pau in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains, Jurancon is a historic growing region and one that is known for bone dry white wines, sweet dessert wines and others at several points in between. This week we are focusing on a dry version that comes from one of the area’s excellent producers. This fabulous entry white wine is made from 70% Gros Manseng and 30% Petite Corbu, grapes favored in SW France, and grown in sandy, silty soils along with puddingstones at steep 350-meter slopes.
Mineral, anise, passionfruit and citrus peel aromas play off soft earth and spice to carry over into flavors that can best be described as palate grabbing! Mouth filling with lots of invigorating zest that conjures up nuances of fresh mandarins, pear and subtle spice. A dry white that plays well with seafood and salty flavors. Proscuitto or Jamon Serrano, scallops in butter/white wine, prawns in a lemon-lime marinade, sole in a light cream sauce. For cheese, this wine rocks with goat cheese or sheep milk cheeses from the Pyrenees.
Mineral, anise, passionfruit and citrus peel aromas play off soft earth and spice to carry over into flavors that can best be described as palate grabbing! Mouth filling with lots of invigorating zest that conjures up nuances of fresh mandarins, pear and subtle spice. A dry white that plays well with seafood and salty flavors. Proscuitto or Jamon Serrano, scallops in butter/white wine, prawns in a lemon-lime marinade, sole in a light cream sauce. For cheese, this wine rocks with goat cheese or sheep milk cheeses from the Pyrenees.
2020 ACHAVAL-FERRER
MALBEC MENDOZA
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
MALBEC MENDOZA
$19.99 BTL./$239.88 CASE
Known for super-lux priced wines; this estate has continued to evolve and remains one of the pinnacle producers in Argentina. Even after receiving medals, accolades, near and at 100-point scores, Achaval-Ferrer still puts forth an entry wine that over-delivers for its price point.
Unlike 10-15 years ago, Malbec from Argentina are no longer about how much oak furniture can be crammed into the bottle. Most producers are now allowing the terroirs to shine and Achaval is no exception. This wine is aged nine months in used French barrels and for twenty-bucks, is compelling indeed. Handsome with an abundance of raspberry, pekoe, chocolate, fig and red earth aromas that keep coming on as the wine unfolds in the glass. In the mouth, it has voluptuousness buffered by cool, zesty tones along with a vertical backbone and a very vinous, broad and seductive finish that soars.
Unlike 10-15 years ago, Malbec from Argentina are no longer about how much oak furniture can be crammed into the bottle. Most producers are now allowing the terroirs to shine and Achaval is no exception. This wine is aged nine months in used French barrels and for twenty-bucks, is compelling indeed. Handsome with an abundance of raspberry, pekoe, chocolate, fig and red earth aromas that keep coming on as the wine unfolds in the glass. In the mouth, it has voluptuousness buffered by cool, zesty tones along with a vertical backbone and a very vinous, broad and seductive finish that soars.
2021 LIVIO FELLUGA FRIULANO
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE
$26.99 BTL./$323.88 CASE
After World War II (as well as previous eras that Friuli was occupied by various empires), it was Livio Felluga who was one of those responsible for restoring viticulture to the region. Up until his passing in 2016 at the age of 102, he was a tireless promoter of the region and their superb wines and compelling story continues with subsequent generations.
Friulano (the grape formerly known as Tocai Friulano) is a white grape native to the Northern reaches of Italy believed to originate in the Veneto region, a neighbor of Friuli. However, it is in Friuli where this grape thrives beautifully. One of the benchmarks of this varietal, the 2021 combines concentration with succulence. Scents of cassis leaf, peach pit, apple, lime, perfumed mineral from the sandstone in the soil and saline step forward at various times as this complex white opens in the glass. Virtually viscous but contradictory as there is ample structure and vibrancy which folds inward and becomes very linear and food friendly on the long, drawn out and elevated finish. Truly a grand scale Italian white wine it pairs beautifully with cured ham, Proscuitto San Daniele in particular. It will also marry up nicely with grilled prawns as well as grilled eggplant or asparagus dishes.
Friulano (the grape formerly known as Tocai Friulano) is a white grape native to the Northern reaches of Italy believed to originate in the Veneto region, a neighbor of Friuli. However, it is in Friuli where this grape thrives beautifully. One of the benchmarks of this varietal, the 2021 combines concentration with succulence. Scents of cassis leaf, peach pit, apple, lime, perfumed mineral from the sandstone in the soil and saline step forward at various times as this complex white opens in the glass. Virtually viscous but contradictory as there is ample structure and vibrancy which folds inward and becomes very linear and food friendly on the long, drawn out and elevated finish. Truly a grand scale Italian white wine it pairs beautifully with cured ham, Proscuitto San Daniele in particular. It will also marry up nicely with grilled prawns as well as grilled eggplant or asparagus dishes.
2021 BRUMONT COTES-DE-GASCOGNE
MERLOT-TANNAT
$11.99 BTL./$143.88 CASE
MERLOT-TANNAT
$11.99 BTL./$143.88 CASE
This offering from the master of Madiran shows the passion that Alain Brumont has for Gascogny. What makes this wine unique is that it is red; most Cotes-de-Gascogne wines we see are white so this wine naturally was intriguing for me to taste.
Combining the lushness and smoothness of Merlot with the power and grip of Tannat, there is a whole lot going on here for such a fair price. Blackberries abound with cranberry, spice and tealeaf notes. No oak aging so there is an instant attractiveness to this wine. Lots of fruit but with sneaky earth and pepper notes on the gliding finish. Enjoy this wine with charcuterie, dishes laden with bacon or a juicy burger.
Combining the lushness and smoothness of Merlot with the power and grip of Tannat, there is a whole lot going on here for such a fair price. Blackberries abound with cranberry, spice and tealeaf notes. No oak aging so there is an instant attractiveness to this wine. Lots of fruit but with sneaky earth and pepper notes on the gliding finish. Enjoy this wine with charcuterie, dishes laden with bacon or a juicy burger.
2020 BOSCHIS DOGLIANO ROSSO
SORI SAN MARTINO
$23.99 BTL./$287.88 CASE
SORI SAN MARTINO
$23.99 BTL./$287.88 CASE
Here is where terroir often takes over. Yes, these wines are made from Dolcetto but they smash the stereotype of everyday wines, the Boschis brothers (among others in Dogliani) make these wines with a Barolo mentality. Sori San Martino is from three very steep vineyards with vines planted in 1945. These slopes range from 1475 feet to just under 2000 and run at 35-55% gradients, hence they are difficult to work and small amounts are produced, just 500 cases for this cuvee.
Aromas of strawberry, black raspberry and lilies erupt from the nose and enhanced by terroir-driven scents of ironstone, smoke and licorice. Sultry, yet fresh in the mouth with pure fruit that spreads out in the middle and follows through into the long, luscious finish. Enjoy this very ageworthy Dogliani that has ample grip with fuller dishes like risotto, slow-roasted pork loin, Italian sausages, good Parmesan Reggiano cheese and don’t be afraid to try it with a bit of spicy (but not so incendiary) Vietnamese or Sichuan beef dishes. Drink now – 2030+.
Aromas of strawberry, black raspberry and lilies erupt from the nose and enhanced by terroir-driven scents of ironstone, smoke and licorice. Sultry, yet fresh in the mouth with pure fruit that spreads out in the middle and follows through into the long, luscious finish. Enjoy this very ageworthy Dogliani that has ample grip with fuller dishes like risotto, slow-roasted pork loin, Italian sausages, good Parmesan Reggiano cheese and don’t be afraid to try it with a bit of spicy (but not so incendiary) Vietnamese or Sichuan beef dishes. Drink now – 2030+.
2021 CROWLEY PINOT NOIR
ENTRE NOUS
$34.99 BTL./$419.88 CASE
ENTRE NOUS
$34.99 BTL./$419.88 CASE
It was really cool to reconnect with Tyson Crowley last month at a vertical Cameron Abbey Ridge tasting. I have always loved his wines and the wines perform at even higher levels than when we last used them about five years ago. Tyson is one of Oregon’s most thoughtful winemakers and produces wines that are genuine Pinot Noir in status and character. No caricature wines here, these are beautiful expressions from top to bottom.
The Entre Nous is a bridge between the Willamette Valley cuvee and the single vineyard wines. Coming from a blend of Four Winds vineyard (37%) in the Coast Range along with grapes from Dundee Hills based La Colina Vineyard (63%); this Pinot is unbelievably poised and packed with the complexities and diversity that each site brings. Gorgeous and oh so classic pinot noir nose of lavender, violet, mulled spice, earth and pepper with undertones of mushroom providing instant complexity and transparency. Texturally, it is quite giving with a ripe and silky texture, and a sense of deep perfume that speaks clearly. The palate’s flavors are indicative of the combination of sites, with the Four Winds bringing backbone and firmness to the pleasurable aspects of the La Colina. Sensuous and prototype, top-drawer Oregon Pinot, these aspects carry on to the finish that maintains a finesseful pure character that is present throughout the wine. Lacy, elegant and accessible but it will age gracefully for 10-12 years easily.
The Entre Nous is a bridge between the Willamette Valley cuvee and the single vineyard wines. Coming from a blend of Four Winds vineyard (37%) in the Coast Range along with grapes from Dundee Hills based La Colina Vineyard (63%); this Pinot is unbelievably poised and packed with the complexities and diversity that each site brings. Gorgeous and oh so classic pinot noir nose of lavender, violet, mulled spice, earth and pepper with undertones of mushroom providing instant complexity and transparency. Texturally, it is quite giving with a ripe and silky texture, and a sense of deep perfume that speaks clearly. The palate’s flavors are indicative of the combination of sites, with the Four Winds bringing backbone and firmness to the pleasurable aspects of the La Colina. Sensuous and prototype, top-drawer Oregon Pinot, these aspects carry on to the finish that maintains a finesseful pure character that is present throughout the wine. Lacy, elegant and accessible but it will age gracefully for 10-12 years easily.
2022 PIRON BEAUJOLAIS ROSÉ
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE
$17.99 BTL./$215.88 CASE
Yes, they do make Rosé in the Beaujolais region and it is quite stimulating. One might think that Beaujolais Rosé is a new phenomenon but its roots actually go back to the 1950s when it was on local wine lists and up until recently was somewhat a confidential wine. This wine is from Gamay grapes from 40+ year old vines in two villages (Corcelles & Lancié) that sit just below the appellation of Morgon in a patchwork of soils containing granite, clay and limestone, all which give it nuance.
This Rosé is akin to sticking your tongue in a light socket, on a frozen flagpole or anywhere else that where it should not be. Then again, it could be akin to putting your tongue somewhere it should be because this wine is all about pleasure. A pink treat that reveals vivacious notes of bing cherry and red currant on the nose along with underlying dusty, powdery aspects. From the first sip, it really makes your mouth water with sculpted fruit, silky texture, and thirst-quenching briskness. With an underlying seriousness here, this can really carry over to the table as your second bottle. Why the second bottle? Because the first will go down so fast that you will definitely need another.
This Rosé is akin to sticking your tongue in a light socket, on a frozen flagpole or anywhere else that where it should not be. Then again, it could be akin to putting your tongue somewhere it should be because this wine is all about pleasure. A pink treat that reveals vivacious notes of bing cherry and red currant on the nose along with underlying dusty, powdery aspects. From the first sip, it really makes your mouth water with sculpted fruit, silky texture, and thirst-quenching briskness. With an underlying seriousness here, this can really carry over to the table as your second bottle. Why the second bottle? Because the first will go down so fast that you will definitely need another.
2016 JANASSE CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
$65.99 BTL./$395.94 - SIX PACK
$65.99 BTL./$395.94 - SIX PACK
95 Points – The Wine Advocate…It is quite amazing that we are able to still offer one of Chateauneuf’s icon producers wine from the legendary 2016 vintage. The Sabon family has owned this estate since 1976 and we have been working with these wines since I turned up at The Cellar Door in 1998. In fact, I’ve been working with them since the 1990 vintage and they do not disappoint. The Tradition Chateauneuf is a blend of mostly parcels in the northern tier of CDP along with a good dollop of some fruit from the famed, big-stone Le Crau lieu dit.
70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre…This is just starting to hit middle age, and as it should be, 2016 is one of the top Chateauneuf vintages of the last decade. Old vine magic here, this comes from 60-80 year old vines and is sculpted, stacked and just hinting at tinges of secondary aromas coming through at age seven. Beautiful combination of rhubarb, Italian plum, rosemary and with lavender, smoked salt and peppercorn building from the glass. Penetrates very deeply and offers up its intense old-vine core and personality. Fabulously textured with ample backbone that is enhanced even more with aspects of ardent strawberry, hot rock and smoky-spicy qualities. Natural freshness and packed with licorice and red tones on the long, luxurious finish that slowly builds. This really comes on as it unfolds in the glass. If you want to drink now, do decant, it is delicious but also no problem to age on through to its 20th birthday.
70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre…This is just starting to hit middle age, and as it should be, 2016 is one of the top Chateauneuf vintages of the last decade. Old vine magic here, this comes from 60-80 year old vines and is sculpted, stacked and just hinting at tinges of secondary aromas coming through at age seven. Beautiful combination of rhubarb, Italian plum, rosemary and with lavender, smoked salt and peppercorn building from the glass. Penetrates very deeply and offers up its intense old-vine core and personality. Fabulously textured with ample backbone that is enhanced even more with aspects of ardent strawberry, hot rock and smoky-spicy qualities. Natural freshness and packed with licorice and red tones on the long, luxurious finish that slowly builds. This really comes on as it unfolds in the glass. If you want to drink now, do decant, it is delicious but also no problem to age on through to its 20th birthday.
