8/4/25 The Cellar Door's 'RANK & FILE' Wine Sheet
THE CELLAR DOOR'S 'RANK & FILE' WINESHEET
Scintillating St-Joseph Value
93-Point Pinot & Rueda
Library Chablis, Italy & more
93-Point Pinot & Rueda
Library Chablis, Italy & more
Domaine Etienne Becheras is situated in the middle portion of the long Saint-Joseph appellation, specifically in the village of Arras. At just under ten acres, this small organically farmed Domaine has vines that average just under fifty years of age planted in limestone and significant schist and granitic soils.
After tasting the new 2023 last week I thought that it had so much Syrah-Soul to it that I ran home to find old Soul Train video cassettes and Earth, Wind & Fire vinyl albums! Discreet, harmonious and on the cool side of Syrah, woodsmoke scents along with black raspberry, asphalt, sanguine, leather and freshly-ground pepper, this is essence of Syrah and St-Joseph. No intrusive oaky tones here, just beautiful purity and scents of guttural-sensuality lead into a layered very elegant, high-toned, refined, food-friendly mouth feel. Grill some lamb chops or sirloin and watch it sing. Drink through 2033+.
After tasting the new 2023 last week I thought that it had so much Syrah-Soul to it that I ran home to find old Soul Train video cassettes and Earth, Wind & Fire vinyl albums! Discreet, harmonious and on the cool side of Syrah, woodsmoke scents along with black raspberry, asphalt, sanguine, leather and freshly-ground pepper, this is essence of Syrah and St-Joseph. No intrusive oaky tones here, just beautiful purity and scents of guttural-sensuality lead into a layered very elegant, high-toned, refined, food-friendly mouth feel. Grill some lamb chops or sirloin and watch it sing. Drink through 2033+.
Garofoli’s wines from the Le Marches region both dazzle and baffle. These wines dazzle with impeccable quality with both reds and whites and in all ranges. The baffling part is the wonder of how they keep their prices so low for such amazing singularity and virtue.
Conero is this Italian Adriatic costal region’s most important red wine. So many undervalued and underestimated wines come from these hillside vineyards. Garofoli's 2020 is from the single vineyard Piancarda made with 100% Montepulciano. Dry, full-flavored and matured in traditional, large casks, this red is very Italian tasting. Smoked plums, meat and minerally earth tones shine on the nose and in the mouth. Have this red with roasted meats with Italian herbs or a nice pecorino cheese.
Conero is this Italian Adriatic costal region’s most important red wine. So many undervalued and underestimated wines come from these hillside vineyards. Garofoli's 2020 is from the single vineyard Piancarda made with 100% Montepulciano. Dry, full-flavored and matured in traditional, large casks, this red is very Italian tasting. Smoked plums, meat and minerally earth tones shine on the nose and in the mouth. Have this red with roasted meats with Italian herbs or a nice pecorino cheese.
93 Points – Wine Spectator…As usual Jessica Mozeico keeps her Pinot Noirs in fine balance, even in a sultry summer vintage like this. Palmer Creek, Eola Springs, Kalita, Fairsing, Deux Vert, and La Pavillon Vineyards are represented in this imminently loveable, true to form Willamette Valley offering.
Another music reference. Think of this as a Pinot version of a 1980s hair metal power ballad. Red toned yet having the substance of this full vintage, the earth and spice balance out the savory plum and smoke aspects. Rich but lifting on the palate, nice acids intertwine and make for something very pure with a sneaky underbelly of backbone. This Pinot is very accessible now but can continue to develop nicely for several years to come.
Another music reference. Think of this as a Pinot version of a 1980s hair metal power ballad. Red toned yet having the substance of this full vintage, the earth and spice balance out the savory plum and smoke aspects. Rich but lifting on the palate, nice acids intertwine and make for something very pure with a sneaky underbelly of backbone. This Pinot is very accessible now but can continue to develop nicely for several years to come.
If you like drinking Grenache-based wines from the Rhone, Languedoc and others then the Emporda region located at the border of France and Spain should be on your radar. We have been working with this estate for almost twenty years and when Anna Espelt took on a personal project we took immediate notice.
Located within a national reserve on the Mediterranean coast called Cap de Creus, the influence of the wind, sun and sea cannot be overstated. Sustained, generous scents of black cherry quickly jump into licorice, pronounced ocean salt and herbs like juniper. The attack is deep and creamy with tannins that are delicate and smooth. Everything highlights the fruit, which follows up with a long finish. Demonstrative of the entire Espelt philosophy and personality, this very expressive wine is a harmonious reflection of authenticity and fruit. Stunning stuff!
Located within a national reserve on the Mediterranean coast called Cap de Creus, the influence of the wind, sun and sea cannot be overstated. Sustained, generous scents of black cherry quickly jump into licorice, pronounced ocean salt and herbs like juniper. The attack is deep and creamy with tannins that are delicate and smooth. Everything highlights the fruit, which follows up with a long finish. Demonstrative of the entire Espelt philosophy and personality, this very expressive wine is a harmonious reflection of authenticity and fruit. Stunning stuff!
93 Points – Vinous…There is Rueda and then there is Martinsancho's Mother of All Rueda. While a good percentage of the Verdejo-based whites that we offer are delicious everyday slurpers, Martinsancho's has much more to it. In Spain's Rueda region, the Verdejo grape was in danger of extinction by the early 1970's. Angel Rodríguez saved the varietal, namely by not uprooting his 17th Century vineyard, Martinsancho. These days others have followed his determined lead and the region's mainstay grape is now thriving.
2021 is a stunner with forward lemon-lime, crushed rock, perfumed minerality, apricot glaze and white flowers. Brisk and dry with impressive substance and character, this is an intense, nervy, and serious Rueda white with a long and blanketing finish. A total joy of an unoaked white that can be sipped alone, with friends and is Jimmy ‘JJ’ Walker DY-NO-MITE with most sea critters.
2021 is a stunner with forward lemon-lime, crushed rock, perfumed minerality, apricot glaze and white flowers. Brisk and dry with impressive substance and character, this is an intense, nervy, and serious Rueda white with a long and blanketing finish. A total joy of an unoaked white that can be sipped alone, with friends and is Jimmy ‘JJ’ Walker DY-NO-MITE with most sea critters.
Andrew Will Wines have been a constant at The Cellar Door since 1998. Known for lavish, higher-end collectibles, Will Camarda also makes a terrific weeknight red Bordeaux-style blend from fine Washington sites.
55% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, this perennial overachieving red blend is once again punching above its weight class. A nose of dark cherries, red plum, raspberries, roasted earth, cocoa, cedar and sweet herbs transfer seamlessly onto a palate that is redolent of ripe red and blue berry fruit; chewy, yet with silky-structured tannins. Fine-tuned, long and polished with spiced chocolate and cedar tones lingering. Scrumdidliumptous right now with braised short ribs, grilled pork chops and more.
55% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, this perennial overachieving red blend is once again punching above its weight class. A nose of dark cherries, red plum, raspberries, roasted earth, cocoa, cedar and sweet herbs transfer seamlessly onto a palate that is redolent of ripe red and blue berry fruit; chewy, yet with silky-structured tannins. Fine-tuned, long and polished with spiced chocolate and cedar tones lingering. Scrumdidliumptous right now with braised short ribs, grilled pork chops and more.
Currently given small (but excellent) vintages plus demand and value, the top white wines from Mount Etna are becoming a pain in the a$$ to obtain. Example, we only have three cases of this sterling white wine to sell.
70% Carricante, 20% Catarratto, 5% Grecanico, 5% Inzolia and what I love about this wine is that they haven’t mucked around with it and had it suffer in a bunch of new barrels, only stainless steel tanks which preserves the freshness and character of these native grapes. Instant white peach aromas leap from the glass along with underlying scents of quince, anise, subtle spice and mineral. Overflowing zesty aspects shine on the palate, which penetrates quite deeply and possesses ample expansion as well as a lingering, vibrant finish. An excellent choice with many seafood dishes, it has weight and depth to go with salmon but enough vibrancy that will allow it to pair well with sashimi or prawns.
70% Carricante, 20% Catarratto, 5% Grecanico, 5% Inzolia and what I love about this wine is that they haven’t mucked around with it and had it suffer in a bunch of new barrels, only stainless steel tanks which preserves the freshness and character of these native grapes. Instant white peach aromas leap from the glass along with underlying scents of quince, anise, subtle spice and mineral. Overflowing zesty aspects shine on the palate, which penetrates quite deeply and possesses ample expansion as well as a lingering, vibrant finish. An excellent choice with many seafood dishes, it has weight and depth to go with salmon but enough vibrancy that will allow it to pair well with sashimi or prawns.
Lombardy is not known much for Barbera. Other varietals take hold with sparkling wine also produced. For years, we have offered this best-buy Barbera, and it continues to provide happiness.
2022 is so easy and friendly it is almost obscene. The perfect balance between richness and freshness with red plum, raspberry, violet, cocoa and earthy minerality. Soft and easy in the mouth, have this delicious Barbera with grilled sausage, four-cheese pizza or a plate of antipasti.
2022 is so easy and friendly it is almost obscene. The perfect balance between richness and freshness with red plum, raspberry, violet, cocoa and earthy minerality. Soft and easy in the mouth, have this delicious Barbera with grilled sausage, four-cheese pizza or a plate of antipasti.
Daniel-Etienne Defaix is a Chablis legend and one of the region’s great characters who started at his familial Domaine at age 18 in 1978. Unlike virtually all the producers in the region, Defaix likes to release his wines at maturity, often ten-plus years later. This sometimes confounds Chablis newcomers or those unfamiliar with the stylings and complexities of old Chablis.
2012 is a glorious vintage that is drinking very well. Cote-de-Lechet is one of my favorite Premiers Crus located on the cool left bank and is very steep. Unoaked as is the norm chez Defaix. Refined and pristine, this wine really unfurls, and the antique, flinty, honey/citrus nose makes you put the brakes on and dive in further. Complex smoke, mushroom, along with an element we refer to as pondwater arrive. Luxuriant, quite tactile and racy, from the jump to the long finish, this well-aged Chablis changes like an obstacle course in the glass starting with sea shore notes to honeycomb, to diamond mineral, back to the sea, earth then to dried sapid lemon and on and on and on.
2012 is a glorious vintage that is drinking very well. Cote-de-Lechet is one of my favorite Premiers Crus located on the cool left bank and is very steep. Unoaked as is the norm chez Defaix. Refined and pristine, this wine really unfurls, and the antique, flinty, honey/citrus nose makes you put the brakes on and dive in further. Complex smoke, mushroom, along with an element we refer to as pondwater arrive. Luxuriant, quite tactile and racy, from the jump to the long finish, this well-aged Chablis changes like an obstacle course in the glass starting with sea shore notes to honeycomb, to diamond mineral, back to the sea, earth then to dried sapid lemon and on and on and on.